THE ALGARVE, PORTUGAL

Viktoriya was waiting impatiently on the curb as we pulled into Tavira Garden, right on the dot of 4:00.  She said we could arrive between 3:00 and 4:00 and, not knowing how long our drive from Sagres would take, we didn't commit, wisely as it turned out.  Our rental car was programmed to take us to Tavira, but for some reason kept wanting us to return to where we'd come from. Is there such a thing as GPS for Dummies?  Thinking we had lots of time to drive the 140 KMS, we took the slow route along N125, stopping to explore Lagos and Praia da Rocha along the way, previous haunts from another time when we free-camped our way across the Algarve.  Much has changed in those 27 years, mainly tourist development, but the scenery is still awesome.

Sagres, on the southwestern tip of Portugal

Cape St. Vincent

Free Campers in Sagres

Praca Gil Eanes, Lagos

Praia da Rocha

As Viktoriya, the housekeeper, whisked us through our orientation of the four-floor, two bedroom apartment, she paused occasionally to make a point."This button, DO NOT TOUCH, understand?  If you do, the hot water goes off, understand?"   Back in the kitchen, she shows us the washing machine.  "Use only this detergent, understand?  Do not push any buttons, only 'push and wash' blue button, understand?" We certainly hoped we understood; we didn't want to have to contact her to tell her we screwed up!  I should have asked her where the beach towels were.....there weren't any....but most everything else we could want was, including a welcome package of wine, beer, water, bread, cheese and milk, along with other items left by recent guests.  We stocked up on groceries at the nearby Mini Preco and the Continente supermercado, and quickly decided to extend our stay to two weeks.

The sun hits the deck by 8:00, perfect for breakfast, and the tennis court is almost always free (and free).

Although Tavira is on a river, there are plenty of accessible beaches nearby.  A 20-minute ferry ride takes you to Ilha de Tavira, where you can stroll the six-mile long sandbar, a seashell scavenger's paradise.  You can access Barril Beach, on the same island, by crossing the coastal inlet over a bridge and hiking about a mile along a nature trail, or catch a cutsy tourist train.

salt production in Tavira dates from the 4th C.

Barril Beach, big waves, cool water

Tourist train to Barril Beach

We've been to a number of other beaches while here, long sandy ones such as Monte Gordo (strange name as there's no mountain, fat or otherwise), Manta Rota, but it's too cold to swim in February.  Here are views from the nearby village of Cacela Velha, set amongst orange groves.

Of course we've explored Tavira too, and found a restaurant near the Old Roman Bridge, Os Arcos, where we've ordered the prato do dia, sitting on the terrace.  If you climb to the castle garden, you're rewarded with views all over town and to the sea.
We were here during Carnaval, a tame version of the one in Rio, but witnessed the children's costume parade in the Praca da Republica.

dining at Os Arcos by the Roman Bridge

Church of Misericordia and castle wall, Tavira

"Treasury" rooftops, Tavira

We took several day trips, one to Vila Real de Santo Antonio, a city on the Guadiana River, on the border with Spain.

Another day to Olhao, the largest fishing village on the Algarve,  just outside of Faro, where we saw "Bom Sucesso" a replica of a 65 foot ship that 17 fishers sailed to Brazil in 1808, taking three months, and with no navigational aids, to advise the exiled king that Napoleon had been defeated and it was safe to come home!

Old building in Olhao

Caique Bom Sucesso

Truth be known, Jim is not crazy about wandering around in strange cities, so he was much happier when we explored a section of the Ria Formosa Natural Park just outside of Olhao.  This is an area encompassing 60 kms along the Eastern coast of the Algarve, from Manta Rota in the east to Ancao in the west, including Ilha de Tavira.  It is made up of sand dunes, shallow lagoons, salt marshes, channels, tidal flats and islets. It's a vital refuge for birds, especially waterfowl, who arrive to winter or stop off while migrating to Africa.  You can find ducks (wigeon, shoveler, teal and pochard); egrets and waders (dunlin, bar-tailed godwit, curlew and grey plover.) The poster bird is the purple gallinule, where this is its only breeding ground in Portugal.

Purple gallinule

Old tide Mill, used water trapped in the tidal pool to grind grain

 Egrets on a freshwater pond 

We explored the idea of taking a bus trip to Seville but they are limited this time of year and start in Lagos, so all seats were booked while we were here.  It's a good idea to book in advance if you want to travel to Spain!  However, yesterday we drove to the town of Alcoutim about 50 kms from here, located on the Guadiana River a short ferry ride across to the small town of Sanlucar de Guadiana.  The return fare was €2.5 each and the trip took no more than five minutes.  We spent about three hours exploring the town, part of Andalucia, with its steep hills up to the church and across to its windmills before enjoying lunch on the patio of Asado Nuevo San Marcos.  I had dorada and wine, Jim had a burger and beer for a total €16.40.

Though the restaurant was not busy when we arrived, about 1:30, it quickly filled up with locals and tourists celebrating Andalucia Day.   There is no predicting when people will eat when you're in a foreign country.

From Sanlucar, looking back at Alcoutim

Spanish windmill

Sanlucar from Alcoutim

Spanish sheep

Alcoutim, Portugal

Today is our last one in Portugal before flying home, and the first time since Lisbon we've awoken to clouds.  We can not complain!

We escaped the rain and ate our last meal at a small bistro on Rua da Silva das Salinas, where a few inside tables were packed with tourists from Canada and Britain.  Tapas at last!  We shared a plate of chourico (a whole sausage grilled on a small counter-top charcoal burner, then sliced) and a plate of biqueirao (European sardines in olive oil and garlic) served with garlic toast.

Viktoriya called by this morning to check on a problem with the kitchen fan.  She has been a lot friendlier since realizing we were not going to be ugly tourists.

Adeus Viktoriya and Portugal.