Wednesday, May 4, 2016

LOIRE VALLEY

Sun. May 1:  Tours 
At last, warming sunshine for our walk to the station.  No terrorists car-bombed the police station.  As Jim pointed out, if they had we would not have survived despite sleeping just metres from all that armed security.

Jean Philippe, our host in Tours, and his kitten Loli welcomed us before we set off for the Vieille Ville with its associations with St. Martin and Charlemagne. After touring mediaeval buildings, ruins and old artists' quarters in narrow streets we enjoyed a very late lunch on Place Plumereau along with many locals celebrating La Fete du Travail.  We later followed the Riverside path by the fast-moving Loire.
Gare de Tours and Gare d'Austerlitz


Hotel de Ville, Tours

medieval building
 Place Plumereau


Mon. May 2:  Valleres
On to the chateaux in our rented Opel car, driving along narrow country roads.  Now this is relaxing (other than when I told Jim to turn onto what turned out to be an exit for buses...oops!). 

The first of at least seven castle visits (yes we bought the tickets already) was Azay-le-Rideau near where we're staying, then stocking up at Carrefour and getting into our cottage.  It feels good to spread ourselves out.  Hosts Richard and Roseliane welcomed us with sparkling wine from a neighboring village over which we shared travel stories.  They are former teachers and he's also a former sculptor.  Their home and yard are decorated with some of his work in wood and marble.  Nowadays he's a bee keeper.

Now to manage our visits to the castles, vineyards and gardens and go cycling.



Tues. May 3:  touring chateaux Amboise and Chenonceau

Unfortunately we had to navigate our way through Tours to these castles so inevitably we got lost but eventually followed the scenic right bank of the Loire to Amboise.  Originally it was a Celtic settlement from the 4th C.  The castle dates from the Renaissance the king made a palace out of the chateau.  Most famously Leonardo da Vinci is buried here.
Amboise


Gothic trapezoid hood





Flemish tapistry

chapel where da Vinci is buried

Chenonceau:  built in 16 C, but most famously occupied by Henri II's mistress Diane de Poitiers.  After Henri's death, his widow, Catherine de' Medici, kicked her out and moved in.  She knew a good castle when she saw it!  Situated on the River Cher, the demarcation line between the Vichy government and free France during WWII, part of the castle was used as a hospital.  It was possible to smuggle people to freedom through the South door.  The gardens are the work of both Diane and Catherine.
Chenonceau

the five queens's  bedroom 


copper pot portrait

Catherine's garden


Catherine herself

Wed. May 4:  Having a lazy day around the cottage, where the loudest sounds are birds chirping, lawn mowers mowing, and frogs croaking.  This morning we rode bikes along a quiet road to a winery in the next village where we tasted and purchased two bottles, one to share with Richard and Roseliane this evening.  Tomorrow is yet another French holiday, Ascension Thursday, with stores closed so we had to shop again.


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