ATLANTIC CANADA (Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and the Magdalen Islands, PQ)

NOVA SCOTIA: Halifax and the South Shore (Sept 6-8)
After a long day's travel Sunday we woke to beautiful sunshine.  From Dartmouth we drove to Peggy’s Cove over the A. Murray MacKay toll bridge and Route 102 and 333.  This was not the most scenic route but we took the Lighthouse route past small bays on the return to Halifax.  Although it’s a popular tourist destination where we competed with tourists for parking and a place to photograph the lighthouse without people, it doesn’t seem spoiled.  The dull flat light gave way somewhat to blue skies and puffy white clouds.


 

Peggy's Cove

          

Once back in Halifax it was a pleasant surprise to find street parking without a meter.  As it turned out nobody was plugging meters anyway probably as it was Labour Day!  We walked the whole waterfront promenade along Lower and Upper Water Street.  Dinner was at an Irish pub, The Old Triangle, just back from the harbour, where I had cod cakes and Jim lobster triangles.  Our first lobster tasting!  We ended with a stroll through the Public Gardens across from the Citadel. On seven hectares, this formal Victorian garden was started in 1873 as a private garden and is an oasis of trees, flowers, ponds and fountains.   

bandstand dating from Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee

 

Sept. 8: South Shore. We travelled south along the old scenic route 3 which winds past Head of St. Margaret’s Bay to Chester, Mahone Bay and finally UNESCO World Heritage Site Lunenburg.  It was not a lot of driving; Chester was a sleepy hamlet and the town of Mahone Bay was livelier with many colourful buildings and shops to lure tourists.  The light was not right to do justice to the trio of photogenic churches reflecting in the water.  And the Settlers’ Museum was not open though it was supposed to be.  However, we had an enjoyable lunch of local seafood chowder at Rebecca’s restaurant along Main Street.  

Lunenburg Old Town

 

Blue Rocks

 

We pulled into Lunenburg around 2:00, parked in the Historic Old Town where virtually every old building has been carefully restored to Victorian facade and painted a bright colour.  We wonder how much original material remains in these wooden buildings built in the 1700s and 1800s.  It was surprisingly hot and humid.  We drove the 8 kms to Blue Rocks which is a tiny fishing village less discovered than Peggy’s Cove  with small houses, fishing sheds and lobster traps plopped on top of the striated blue-grey slate and sandstone.  There were no tourist facilities in sight save a couple of tiny shops selling ice cream and souvenirs.

At 4:30 we checked into The Lennox Inn on Fox at Cornwallis.  The house, which stands across from the Lutheran church, was built by one of the German settlers in 1791.  It was bought by John Lennox in 1804 who ran it as a tavern and inn, and is the oldest operating inn in Canada now. Robert Cram bought it as a derelict former apartment in 1991 and spent seven years in meticulously renovating it close to its original state.  Details of how he went about this can be found at the website:  www.lennoxinn.com.  There are four large bedrooms furnished in antique period pieces.  The former taproom is the present dining room.  We’re the only guests tonight. 

The Lennox Inn, built 1791

 

 

Robert recommended a couple of restaurants and we chose The Old Fish Factory where we had our first (but not our last) lobster dinner on the waterfront as the light was fading.  Unfortunately we didn't see the Bluenose II  as she was sailing between Yarmouth and Digby.

St. John’s Anglican Church down Cornwallis, built 250 years ago, was the 2^nd oldest church in Canada before being almost totally destroyed by fire in 2001.  It has since been restored in the original “Carpenter Gothic” style. 

St. John's Anglican Church

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunenburg - Cape George - Cape Breton:  Sept. 9  As we left at 8:30 there was a light drizzle.  We headed for Bridgewater and the 103 north, skirting Halifax and following 102 to Truro, then Trans Canada Hwy (104) east, stopping in New Glasgow for lunch (lobster rolls at Subway)  We got off the beaten track on Cape George Scenic Drive (Hwys 245 and 337) with a stop at the beach of Arisaig.  Four hundred million years ago this area was a shallow sea; layers of sediment have built up which are now eroding exposing the fossils buried over the millennia. 

Another short stop was the lighthouse, now automated, at Cape George, a very windy promontory. 

 

 

 

 

Passing through Antigonish, we hit the Canso Causeway about 4:00, and headed up the Ceilidh Trail, Hwy 19, 30 kms to our B & B, Rachel By the Sea, in Judique (JOOD-ick).  Rachel took me by surprise.  She’s a very elderly widow who’s been running this business for almost 20 years.  She has four immaculate bedrooms upstairs all sharing a bathroom.  We sat on her deck sipping wine (ours) and exchanging stories.  She grew up on Cape Breton and wanted to join the Canadian Air Force in WWII so she would get a paid education later, but her daddy said “No” because she was a woman.  Instead she worked in the U.S. before marrying an American from Staten Island, NY, and that is where they moved and raised their four children.  After he died suddenly at age 60 she moved back to Breton to be close to her many siblings.  She and her husband had bought the property years before, coming back often for family vacations and had planned to build this house even before he passed away.  Again we were the only guests.  An advantage of staying in a guest house or country home is you don't pay tax, a considerable saving.  The side benefit is getting to know the locals a bit.

The Ceilidh Trail, Cape Breton

There being no restaurants in Judique, we were advised to head for Port Hood.  Not finding either of the two places Rachel suggested we asked directions of a local who said a better place to go was the “Clovitch”.  He said “Tell ‘em Wullfurd sent ya.”  When we found the restaurant called “Clove Hitch” we told them Wilfred sent us. 

The Cabot Trail and Cape Breton Highlands National Park - Sept. 10 (Thu.): This was not the best weather for travelling the Cabot Trail; we entered the C. B. Highlands National Park in the fog, going clockwise, stopping for a couple of short hikes, one at Lone Shieling in the Highlands where we saw a replica of a Scottish crofter's hut.  Another was on the Atlantic coast at Ingonish Beach.  I’d planned for us to take two days on the Trail but there wasn’t much to see other than trees, fog and headlands, so we carried on to Baddeck, arriving at 5:30.  All the B & Bs in town seemed to be booked so we got the last room at the Telegraph House hotel, a large Victorian structure where we paid more than any other place so far for less.  So I booked us a B & B for tomorrow night in Amherst, near the border with N.B. 

 

Crofters shelter, Cabot Trail

I noticed a sign for a ceilidh at St. Michael’s Hall at 7:30, so we had something to do.  The performers were a husband (guitarist) and wife (fiddler) and an accompanying pianist.  They gave lots of background on the music and Melody, the fiddler, performed step dancing.

Neil's Harbour, Atlantic Coast



 



Baddeck to Amherst:  Sept. 11 It rained last night, our first real rain of the trip.  We got coffee from the lobby and ate our muffins and fruit before checking out, walking a km. or so to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum where we spent an interesting couple of hours.  The drive across to Mabou and down to Judique was laced with sun, cloud and drizzle.  We crossed the Canso Causeway travelling the Northumberland Shore (Sunrise Coast) to Amherst.  Mid afternoon break was at the Jost Winery on Tatamagouche Bay.  After this, the rain started in earnest.  We arrived in pouring rain at Brown’s Guest Home where Nancy showed us to our queen room in a lovely Victorian house that’s been run by her family for 55 years; first by her mother, and now her.  Dinner was a five-block walk through puddles to Duncan’s Pub, where we had more food than we could eat (Greek salad and jambalaya) while being entertained by a guitarist who sang songs from the 70s, 80s and 90s.  

 

sampling and buying wine on the Sunrise coast

Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick:  Sept. 12 (Sat.):  Today was not a long driving day.  In no time we were in New Brunswick and skirted Moncton with great maps from the VIC, then travelled along the Fundy coast to Hopewell Rocks.  We stopped in at the Chocolate River Motel at Edgett’s Landing to pay, arriving at the Rocks at high tide.

 

high tide

 

We couldn’t go to down to the beach until 3 hours past this, so we took the side road 915 to Mary’s Point and Cape Enrage with its 150-year-old lighthouse.  All day we were in changeable but not bad weather:  drizzle, cloud, even a bit of sun.  Fundy Bay is known for extreme tidal change, caused by the funnel shape of the bay, deep at one end and shallow at the other, and the pull/alignment of the sun and moon.  We came back at 4:00 to walk the beach and watch the rock doves flit among the flowerpot rock formations.

Tide going out, 4 hours later

nesting rock doves, Hopewell Rocks

 

Cape Enrage, Fundy coast

 

 

We went for another lobster dinner at the motel.  Probably we should take a break from lobster for awhile now!

Prince Edward Island, Cavendish Coast - Sept. 13 (Sun.):  We had our complimentary egg, bacon, toast and coffee breakfast at the motel restaurant before wending our way back to Moncton, which we didn’t by-pass as it was Sunday, and Hwys 15, 2 and 16 to the Confederation Bridge.  The bridge is 12.9 kms and is free en route to PEI but you pay $45 to leave.  Similarly, the Wood Islands ferry to Caribou, NS costs $69 on leaving PEI. 

We found street parking in downtown Charlottetown and wandered around in drizzle, past Confederation Landing Park and a seaside boardwalk before having lunch at a street market on Queen Street (Indian food).  Province House, where the historic 1864 Charlottetown conference that was the birthplace of confederation took place, was closed for extensive renovations, but we caught up with the history at Founders’ Hall.  Their presentation is state-of-art audio-visuals, holo-visuals and interactive displays. 



Confederation Landing

Grafton Street church 

We stocked up on food at Sobey’s on our way up Hwy 2 to stock up for our cottage at North Rustico (www.nrmci.com) which took about an hour.  Dwight was very helpful with local info and maps, and in no time we settled in.  We’ve been spending about $100/day on eating so we’re going to enjoy preparing our own food for awhile.  There’s a BBQ on the deck and a microwave, mini-fridge and coffee maker in the spacious cabin.  It feels great to spread out and call one place home for 3 days.



 

 

TRIGLAV, VRSIC PASS, SOCA VALLEY TO PIRAN

Wed. June 26:  Leaving S. L. for the Julian Alps on the motorway, we zipped northwest towards Vršič Pass, entering Triglav National Park within an hour. We climbed the 24 hairpin turns towards the summit, stopping to view the small wooden Russian Chapel commemorating several hundred Russian POWs who died in an avalanche on March 8, 1916 when they were building the roads to supply the Soča Front.  We took a little hike up the scree near the summit (1611 m) to view the mountains, later stopping on the way down for a small picnic and a view of Triglav (“three heads”) where it was very windy and cold.  After 50 turns, we were down into the turbulant Soča Valley.

 Vršič Pass

 

There are small caves, tunnels and former guard stations scattered along the route from WWI, where the Soča Front saw brutal action between the Italian and the Austro-Hungarian armies.  We passed graveyards and the Kluže Fort.  The mighty Soča with its milky blue waters, has carved out canyons that are popular with whitewater enthusiasts. 

We came to Kobarid late in the afternoon; it’s a small town with lots of history, warranting more time than a short stop.  We walked up the hill to see the mausoleum dedicated to the Italian soldiers opened by Mussolini in 1938, but left the remainder of the historic walk for the next day (Roman castle, Italian trenches and waterfall.)

 Ernest Hemmingway drove an ambulance in the region and based his novel, A Farewell to Arms, here in Caporetto, the Italian name.  There is an excellent WW I museum.  On April 26, 1915 the Italians took Kobarid and fought the defending Austro-Hungarians in the hills for 29 months, finally losing the 12th battle.  Ultimately, the Italians, aided by the British, French and US Allies, retook Kobarid a year later as the war wound down. 

Soča River

 

Fri. June 28:  Piran

Jim dropped the car off in Portoroz while I waited with the luggage in Piran at Tartini Square.  We walked up the steep cobbled lane to Hotel Max Piran (www.maxpiran.com) and up two flights to our small room.  All six rooms on three floors look out at the campanile 100 m. away.  Piran is one of the three oldest cities in Slovenia; it has narrow passages between buildings and you are severely restricted for driving.  Our first impression of Piran was “touristy”; the square and the touristic restaurants around the seaside were filled.  Tonight we enjoyed a concert of klapa (a capella) singing from the church grounds, first from our room, then later from the walls by the campanile, where we could see the performers on a large screen. 

   

 

Breakfast at Max’s is a social affair.  His first agenda is "music, music, music", followed by "coffee, coffee, coffee" from his excellent espresso machine.  Max is quite an engaging character and carries on a conversation while serving plates of meat and cheese, fresh bread/rolls and juice.  He has a small shrine dedicated to Elvis.  The cosy setting encouraged talk with the other guests who were from Germany, Finland and the U.S.

We had our last swim in the Adriatic and our last dinner at Gostilna Park where the portions were HUGE!  We understand Slovenians demand large portions when they dine out or they bad-mouth the restaurants.  They generally take half their meal home for the next day, an option we didn't have. 

Because there is no bus to Trieste on the weekends, we had to take a very expensive taxi-ride to the airport 70 kms. away.  But it was a relaxing way to start our long travel day home, 18 hours door to door.  It's always good to get home!



 



 

 

ZAGREB (CROATIA) to LJUBLJANA & SKOFJA LOKA (SLOVENIA)

We enjoyed our three days in Dubrovnik, visiting the Old Town and swimming, trying to keep cool in the heatwave that occurred.  This was the start of about a week of temps well above the norm, reaching the mid-30s and, with the humidity, feeling like the high-30s by the time we were in Zagreb.  Keeping cool became our main priority and conserving energy!  At one point the temperature was 18 degrees F above the norm.  We saved walking the walls in Dub. until late in the afternoon. 

One of the reasons we went with light packs on this trip was the restrictions on Croatia Air.  I'm happy to report we came in well under the maximum weight, at about 11 kg each.  Still, the packs are full, so we couldn't have squeezed in much more!  I have all my stuff tidily-arranged in separate bags, but when it comes time to close my pack, I usually have to get Jim to do it, so I'm not sure the "tidyness" is worth it! 

We have stayed in three Airbnbs (www.airbnb.com) now:  thanks to the Hoopers and Thomsons for recommending these, as they've been great.  In Zagreb we stayed near the center in a ground-floor apartment on a courtyard.  The old building was solid and kept the heat and noise out.  Our host, Tomislav, met us at the door and gave us very good advice on where to eat nearby on either Kaptol or Tkalčićeva streets.  The sites we visited were all nearby too. We loved the Museum of Naïve Art, which we followed by a wonderful ethnic lunch on the patio at Konoba Didov San (Grandfather’s Dream) where we shared appetizers:  soparnik (spinach, herbs, oil in pastry), kobasice (home-made sausage with olives and pickles), and a wonderful Greek salad called salata sopska.  After this we went to Ivan Meštrović atelier, Croatia's answer to Rodin, who was his friend.  In the evening we strolled to the square, a hive of activity and entertainment, to get our daily dose of sladoled, the delicious gelato-style ice cream.  How are we going to break this habit, I wonder. 

Grandfather's Dream lunch     

Ivan Mestrovic sculpture

We arrived in Ljubljana in an oven of afternoon heat, but managed to haul our bags to “Apartment Ljubljana Center terrace”.  Sarah wheeled up on her bike at the appointed hour and led us up the 80 steps to the 5^th floor (6^th in Canada) miniscule apt.  It is about the size of our second bedroom.  Everything is in its place.  The toilet and shower share a closet.  There was no A/C so we didn’t spend much time there.  It was not misrepresented but I should not have booked it…too small…too many stairs…and the “terrace with (peekaboo) view of the castle” was extremely hot.  We found a lovely place for a drink on the river by the “Ugly Duckling” bridge, followed by dinner on Mestni trg at Julija and wandered into the park across the river to listen to a free concert.

 "It was so good I had another one."

Ljubljana is a fun place:  lots of street entertainment, the bridges crossing the river, boats going up and down; reminds me a little of Amsterdam.  For us the highlight was the Castle and it's Gostilna na Gradu or Castle Restaurant.  It was excellent value and served delicious Slovenian specialties.

This brings us to Škofja Loka, about 22 km. north of Ljub., where we are now.  We're staying in our first hotel, Garni Paleta (http://hotel-skofjaloka.si/en/), which Jim booked based on the ratings on Trip Advisor (Travelers' Award for 2013.)  The hotel room was a godsend in the heat:  spacious, cool, comfortable.  And Igor is the dream host, serving a wonderful breakfast with snacks for later, giving travel advice, maps, brochures, and local history.  I am a little bit in love!  I quickly suggested to Jim we should extend our three days here to five and make day trips now we have the car, so that's what we're doing.

     Garni Paleta Hotel, Skofja Loka

                                                               

 

On Saturday there was a Medieval fair in town.  Sunday we went to Lakes Bled and Bohinj, coming back through narrow, twisty roads over a mountain pass and into the verdant Selška Valley.  Yesterday we woke to thunder, a heavy downpour and a dramatic drop in temperature.  Igor suggested a trip to one or both of the caves in the Karst region, an arid limestone plateau in southwestern Slovenia.  We chose Škocjan, near Italy.  The tour lasted about 1 ½ hours, first through the “dry caves”, then the caves with the river flowing deep below.  On the drive back we viewed Predjama Castle, built into a cave.

 

Today we hiked about 5 hours through hamlets, between fields, and up, up, up through a black forest where we picked wild blueberries.  We were rewarded with views of the valleys below and mountains above, when we stopped for lunch at another gostilna at Krizna Gora. 

 

So now we are winding down.  We leave here tomorrow with two days through the Julian Alps and then our final two in Piran on the coast. 

DALMATIA: Split, Korcula and Dubrovnik

Last Monday we said "arrivederci" to our friends, boarded a bus for the long trip to Split (8 hrs) where we were met at the bus station by Diana, one of many locals flogging their sobe and apartmani at bus and train stations.  She promised her place was 6 minutes away, quiet and clean.  I talked her down to 30 euro and we hoisted our bags and headed off.  I'm sure for most people, and me without a pack it would take that long, but I'm kind of slow, like a tortoise.  Jim and Diana charged ahead like rabbits.  Indeed the place was decent and all we needed for one night.  

We headed into the Old Town, just missing the tour groups, in search of an ATM that would take our debit card (not always the case), then a welcome dinner.  Later we walked through Diocletian’s Palace which looked amazing as twilight approached.  There was entertainment in the centre in Peristylen Square, Diocletian’s former entry hall, and the whole atmosphere was mystical.  A musical duo was playing and singing outside the Luxor Bar and children were dancing in the square.  You could almost believe you were back in Roman times if you ignored the many, many shops set up inside the labyrinths of the palace.  We were so glad to see it at night as the atmosphere the next day amidst the hoards was totally different. 

The next day we walked along the waterfront (riva) and finally found Buffet Fife in Varoš near the Fishermen’s port, which a local told us about.  After climbing up some stairs in the Marjan “forest” for a view of the port and palace, we retraced our steps to the restaurant.  Indeed the portions were large, the food good and the waitress entertaining.  Jim asked her how many languages she spoke and she said, "Only 165 but there are hundreds more I don't know".  Jim had a local beef specialty, pasticada, roasted and braised in a rich wine sauce, served with gnocchi; I had dried cod brudetto, a savoury stew of fish, broth and potatoes.  It had turned quite hot and we didn’t feel like wandering any more so parked ourselves close to the water to relax.  Suddenly the darkening clouds produced the threatening rain, but by then we’d almost made it back to Diana’s to pick up our bags.  By the time we arrived at the dock, at 4:00, all was sunny and bright again.  We boarded the Krilo catamaran at 4:30, crowded with passengers going first to Hvar and eventually to Korcula, where we arrived shortly before 8:00 after a bouncy ride.

 

    

 

 

 

Korcula:  We were among the first to get off the ferry.  Immediately we were approached by two women selling accommodation. The first one, smarter and more professional looking, had pictures and told us her Apartmani were nearby but her price seemed high.  Jim started talking to the other woman, and the first one said, “Do you want it or not?” so Jim said “no” and she went looking for other customers.  The second woman could not speak much English but made up for it with enthusiasm, assuring us her place was 4 or 5 kms away by car, 15-20 min. by footpath.  She said the apartment had a kitchen, garden and was near shops and 2-3 minutes from the beach.  She wanted 200 kn./night ($40) and she and her husband would drive us to look at it so we agreed.  They showed us the suite on the bottom floor of a house.  We just looked at each other; there was clutter everywhere, the beds weren’t made up, and it was dark as the French doors were frosted glass so you couldn't see out.  It obviously wasn’t ready for renting, but she kept countering any objections with ways the problems could be overcome:  hot water carried from the bathroom to wash the dishes, move the little table outside to take coffee in the “garden” (cement, rocks and weeds, no view), no coffee machine (use instant).  There was no decoration unless you counted a girlie calendar.  She had no WIFI but we'd be able to trek into town and sit on her porch!  Her husband kept emphasizing the air/con feature (klima).  In the end, it was too late to back out, so we agreed to stay for the night.  She was really high energy and told us her husband was having heart surgery on Friday.  We felt sorry for them, but in the end that wasn’t enough to get us to stay two more days.  When she hadn’t shown up by 10:00 we hid the key, hoisted our backpacks and walked into town.  We tried to book a place at Rezi and Andro DePolo’s (distant relatives of town poster boy Marco) west of Old Town.  Rezi was full but showed us a sobe next door which we took for 260 kn/night ($52).  The room was small but clean, had a view of the water and Old Town, and a swimming beach across the street.  Nobody else was staying there so we had exclusive use of the front patio and also the kitchen and bathroom on our floor. This is more like it!  Rezi is a sweetheart; she feeds and has spayed 5 stray cats who have great lives as a result.  "I am a cat lover.  But my husband is getting mad at me."  I told her, "You are a good woman, Rezi."  She said, "I know, but it costs me a lot of money.  It's a good thing my husband doesn't speak English." 



 

The last day we walked to a sandy beach in Lumbrada, maybe 10 kms, arriving at Vela Pržina very hot and tired.  We rented an umbrella for 20 kn. and waded into the warm shallow waters.  Heavenly!  We hated to leave Korcula, but Dubrovnik was waiting. 

Dubrovnik:  Fri. We were outside waiting for our shuttle pickup at 8:25.  The taxi picked up another woman en route to the harbour ferry.  She turned out to be a tour guide for Adventure Tours of Richmond and lives in Vancouver.  Small world.

The ferry crossing to Orebić took 10 minutes, affording great views of Old Town.  Once on the shuttle bus, an 8-passenger minivan, we followed the coast, through an interesting walled town called Ston, and arrived in Dub. about 11:30.  Our driver had to call Ivo for directions to the Airbnb and he showed up on his motorcycle in his business dress from the bank to lead the way up the road to the attic apartment.   Ivo took a few minutes to show us in and give us brief instructions.  Once unpacked, we walked to find a Konsum store nearby and stock up.  Then we walked 20 minutes into the crowded Old Town, flooded with tourists.  Somehow this is getting less appealing, but we gave it a good look.  We enjoyed our home-cooked dinner in our apartment.  Today (Sat) we walked to a nearby beach for a swim.  Perhaps we'll climb the Old Town walls tomorrow.  So help me, if I'm not fitter and slimmer when I get home, I'm going to be upset!!!!!

 

 

 

DOLOMITES; CROATIA (ISTRIA AND KRK)

Here are a few photos from our time in the Dolomites, Istria and the northern Croatian islands.

 Lasino, Italy in the Western Dolomites

 

 Riva del Garda

 Lunch at Flavio & Cristina's herb farm where the spinach and strawberries were fresh picked from the garden.

 

 

Istria, Croatia:

 

 Amphitheatre, Pula: It was completed in 80 AD and used for gladiator battles until they were outlawed in the early 5^th C.  It’s the 6^th largest and one of the best-preserved Roman theaters anywhere. Today the arena is used to stage musical events featuring the likes of Placido Domingo and Elton John.

We rented bikes to explore the town and go to a distant beach.  I hadn't been on a bike in several years, but did okay going into town.  When we headed out toward to beach on the roads with no margins and fairly fast traffic it was a different story.  I fell off the bike into grass and bush.  We decided to let F & C carry on and we turned in our bikes and went to the local beach.     

 

Cres Grad, en route to Krk.  We stopped here for lunch and a swim.

 

 

Cristina and Flavio on the beach at Baska, Krk.

 

 

After exploring the coast of Croatia, I wonder if it doesn't mean "rocky place" as that's the most prominant feature.  We marvelled at how anything could grow there.  We enjoyed the seafood, swimming and good company of our friends.