We arrived this morning after 24 hours of travel Vancouver-Toronto-Paris. Our flight landed about 8:45 a.m. local time to sun and 8• C. The RER train from Charles de Gaulle airport and Metro four stops took about an hour. Our hotel, Coypel, is a short walk from Place d'Italie in the 13th arrondissement on the left bank near Gare d'Austerlitz where we'll catch our train to Tours in two short days, just enough time to get over the flight.
Spiralling out from the hub at The Place are the spokes which give this district its charm, old streets with funky bistros and shops. The area has undergone a Renaissance lately, including ongoing work at the station. When we stayed in the area 14 years ago it had a more run-down, working class feel. We're right next to a police station with an armada of vehicles and coterie of gendarmes at the ready, some with sub-machine guns.
After a necessary refreshing nap, we found Chez Gladines (www.chezgladines.com) in our neighborhood, known for its Basque specialties, chicken dishes and large salads. The wait was about 20 minutes during which time we chatted with Alex from Boston who told us it's the best restaurant in France, high praise. We share a cozy table with Mary and Len from Oxford and Patricia, a local friend of theirs. Jim had steak in green peppercorn sauce and Lynne had salt cod in a red sauce, both served with copious helpings of sliced fried potatoes, the French version of home fries. Patricia explained that service was include on most bills even if it's not stated and the diner is expected to leave just an additional small tip of 5% or so.
Sat. 30 April: Cool and drizzly today. Walked to Gare d'Austerlitz to buy our train tickets. Jim said we should have rented the car in Paris and saved €130 return fare but it's better not to drive in Paris we think. We didn't wear enough layers but still walked to the Place de la Bastille and then the Jardin des Plantes, probably at least seven kms.
We're catching up on lost sleep by napping but then we're good to go again. Walked another six or so kms. to Chinatown tonight for dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant then caught late sun on buildings around the place. Moving on to Tours tomorrow.
Just a thought... Paris is a series of villages and you see such diverse cultures and degrees of gentrification in close proximity.
old building Av. de l'Hopital
The Bastille
Bastille from boat basin
The last two are oopses while learning how to use this tablet's camera that I turned into "Art"
