Wed. June 26: Leaving S. L. for the Julian Alps on the motorway, we zipped northwest towards Vršič Pass, entering Triglav National Park within an hour. We climbed the 24 hairpin turns towards the
summit, stopping to view the small wooden Russian Chapel commemorating several
hundred Russian POWs who died in an avalanche on March 8, 1916 when they were
building the roads to supply the Soča Front.
We took a little hike up the scree near the summit (1611 m) to view the
mountains, later stopping on the way down for a small picnic and a view of
Triglav (“three heads”) where it was very windy and cold. After 50 turns, we were down into the turbulant Soča
Valley.
Vršič Pass
Vršič Pass
There are
small caves, tunnels and former guard stations scattered along the route from WWI, where
the Soča Front saw brutal action between the Italian and the Austro-Hungarian
armies. We passed graveyards and the
Kluže Fort. The mighty Soča with its
milky blue waters, has carved out canyons that are popular with whitewater
enthusiasts.
We came
to Kobarid late in the afternoon;
it’s a small town with lots of history, warranting more time than a short stop. We walked up
the hill to see the mausoleum dedicated to the Italian soldiers opened by
Mussolini in 1938, but left the remainder of the historic walk
for the next day (Roman castle, Italian trenches and waterfall.)
Ernest
Hemmingway drove an ambulance in the region and based his novel, A Farewell to Arms, here in Caporetto,
the Italian name. There is an excellent WW I museum. On April 26, 1915 the Italians took Kobarid and fought the defending Austro-Hungarians in the hills for 29 months, finally losing the 12th battle. Ultimately, the Italians, aided by the British, French and US Allies, retook Kobarid a year later as the war wound down.
Soča River
Soča River
Fri. June 28:
Piran
Jim dropped the car off in Portoroz while I waited with the luggage in Piran at Tartini Square. We walked up the steep cobbled lane to Hotel Max Piran (www.maxpiran.com) and up two flights to
our small room. All six rooms on
three floors look out at the campanile 100 m. away. Piran is one of the three oldest cities in
Slovenia; it has narrow passages between buildings and you are severely
restricted for driving. Our first
impression of Piran was “touristy”; the square and the
touristic restaurants around the seaside were filled.
Tonight we enjoyed a concert of klapa (a capella) singing from the church grounds,
first from our room, then later from the walls by the campanile, where we could see the performers on a large
screen.
Breakfast
at Max’s is a social affair. His first agenda is "music, music, music", followed by "coffee, coffee, coffee" from his excellent espresso machine. Max is quite an engaging
character and carries on a conversation while serving plates of meat and cheese, fresh bread/rolls and juice. He has a small shrine dedicated to Elvis. The cosy setting encouraged talk with the other guests who were from Germany, Finland and the U.S. We had our last swim in the Adriatic and our last dinner at Gostilna Park where the portions were HUGE! We understand Slovenians demand large portions when they dine out or they bad-mouth the restaurants. They generally take half their meal home for the next day, an option we didn't have.
Because there is no bus to Trieste on the weekends, we had to take a very expensive taxi-ride to the airport 70 kms. away. But it was a relaxing way to start our long travel day home, 18 hours door to door. It's always good to get home!
